Controlling Rat and Mouse Populations
The best way to control rats
and mice is to close all access routes into buildings, but this is difficult to
do in poultry houses.
The second best control method
is to remove all shelter, food, and water, which again, poultry farmers are not
able to do. That leaves using one or a combination of poisoning, trapping, or
using cats.
Using Cats
Some poultry people consider
cats a nuisance and a possible host for disease. However when properly managed,
cats do control mice in cage laying houses but cannot be relied upon to reduce
rat populations severely, although they will restrict a population buildup.
Cats work best when they are not permitted to leave the house. During flock
changes it is best to catch and confine the cats until the new flock is in
place.
Cats should be kept working.
Use one cat per 5,000 laying birds, up to a total of five cats per house. More
than five cats per house may reduce hunting activity. Young (less than five
years old) female cats make the best hunters.
Trapping
Trapping is a practical way to
remove rats and mice on relatively small poultry farms, but in commercial
operations you need too many traps and it takes too much attention to remove
dead rats and re-bait the traps to be practical.
If you use traps, many foods
make good baits-peanut butter, meat of nuts, doughnuts, cake, fresh crisp-fried
bacon, cheese, raisins, strawberry jam, milk chocolate, apples, gumdrops,
prunes, and pineapple.
Enlarging the trap trigger
with cardboard makes it more effective.
Place the traps across or
near paths rats or mice normally use. Both rats and mice, because of their poor
eyesight and for protection, like to run close to walls. Because mice travel
only short distances, set traps every 10 feet. With rats, place traps every 25
to 50 feet.
Rats and mice are accustomed
to human odors. Therefore, you don't need to boil or handle traps with gloves.
Remove dead animals from the traps regularly.
Using a
Rodenticide
Rodenticides are usually mixed with some bait
material or materials. Selecting the right bait is important, especially where a plentiful supply of good feed is
available, as in poultry houses. Also, the Norway and roof rats and the mouse
each have bait preferences. Therefore, it is important to know which of these
rodents you plan to poison so you can choose the right bait material. Remember:
If you use rodent control for rats only, mice will multiply rapidly once
the rat population is under control. (The mice do not have to compete with the
rats.)
Using Anti-fertility
Agents Research is
being conducted to develop chemosterilants (anti-fertility agents) for rats and
mice. Once developed and marketed, these drugs will probably be a follow-up to
a rodenticide.
Using
Chemical and Mechanical Repellents Chemical and mechanical rat and mouse
repellents have been tried, but neither seems to control rats and mice in and
around poultry
Bait Preferences and Care
House Mouse
House mice prefer canary
seed (bird seed), prunes, pineapple, jelly beans, peanut butter, chopped
apples, corn, wheat, oatmeal, Milo, doughnuts, cookies, and sweet chocolate
candy. They also like the juices of prunes and pineapple.
House mice are nibblers and
like to try new foods. Using baits different from the usual food source often
works well on mice, with two or three choices of baits in small amounts.
Roof Rat
The roof rat is a finicky
eater, wary of everything new in its environment, including food, and does not
readily accept meat or fish. The roof rat likes cereal grains, chopped apples,
sweet potatoes, melons, prunes, pineapple, cookies, doughnuts, sweet chocolate
candy, peanut butter, and tomatoes.
Norway Rat
Norway rats readily accept fresh meat and fish.
They usually prefer a bait higher in protein and fat than their normal diets.
Also, they like peanut butter, sweet chocolate candy, lettuce, tomatoes,
apples, carrots, bananas, corn, milo , wheat, and doughnuts. Norway rats are
gluttons and accept a greater variety of baits than do roof rats. Also, they
are not as wary about new objects or food in their territory as is the roof. This
makes them a little easier to bait and trap.
Suggested Dry and Water Bait Mixtures
Dry Bait Mixtures
These are some
dry bait mixtures rats and mice accept: (Note: With each mixture listed, reduce percentage level of the major ingredient to allow adding the proper level of
rodenticide.)
1. A good, high protein bait
mixture is 60 percent poultry offal meal, 5 percent sugar, and 35 percent
poultry mash. (Reduce poultry offal meal to allow for rodenticide.) This is a
good Norway rat bait, since they prefer high protein baits. Roof rats and mice may
also accept it. Because of its high protein content, this mixture is suggested
for poultry houses with or without chickens in them.
2. Mix 90 percent poultry
mash, 5 percent sugar, and 5 percent peanut or corn oil. (Reduce poultry mash
to allow for rodenticide.) Rats and mice should accept this mixture. It is more
effective just after you remove chickens and feed from the house.
3. Canary grass seed (80
percent), 10 percent poultry mash, 5 percent sugar, and 5 percent peanut or
corn oil. (Reduce canary grass seed to allow for rodenticide.) This mixture is
probably best for mice.
4. Corn meal (90 percent), 5
percent sugar, and 5 percent peanut or corn oil. (Reduce corn meal to allow for
rodenticide.) Both rats and mice will accept this bait, but acceptance may be
limited where poultry feed is available for the rats and mice. Acceptance of
this bait is usually best when used in the absence of poultry feeds.
5. Use the same mixture as
in #4 bait except substitute cracked corn, soybean meal, milo, rolled oats,
wheat, or a mixture of these for cornmeal. Because soybean meal has a higher
protein content, rats may prefer soybean meal to cornmeal, while mice may
prefer cornmeal or a mixture.
6. Poultry feed (mash or
pellets) 100 percent. (Reduce level of poultry feed to allow for rodenticide.)
You may use this bait for both rats and mice. Acceptance will be good if you
use it just after you remove chickens and feed. Otherwise, rats and mice pass
by the bait stations and go to the fresher, less contaminated feed in the
feeder lines and pans.
Water Bait Mixtures
Water baits are effective for rat control in certain situations, and some rodenticides (quick kill and anticoagulants) are sold in water soluble form. Water baiting works best for rat control where water has been available but is unavailable at the time of poisoning. Such a situation can exist just after you have removed the chickens from a poultry house and have cut off and drained all the waterers.
Chick drinkers make good water bait dispensers. Clean well after each use. You may use water bait poisoning along with feed bait poisoning for a more effective total population kill.
You may improve rodent acceptance by adding sugar to the water at the rate of 5 percent. In addition, you may add 5 percent prune, pineapple, apple, or grape juice to help increase acceptance. If you add sugar, use unsweetened juice. Since mice can live on little water, water baiting is normally more effective with rats because they need moderate amounts of water daily. However, mice will accept water baits reasonably well when you add sugar and juice.
Establishing
Bait Stations
When dispensing poison bait
or establishing bait stations, consider these points:
1. Because rats and mice
have poor eyesight, they tend to run beside walls or other stationary objects
and use their keen sense of touch in their whiskers and the guard hairs on
their bodies to help guide them. These sensitive hairs help them travel in the
dark, in their burrows, and in search of food and water. They do not often
leave their established pathways unless the environment or food and water
supplies change.
2. Neither rats nor mice
travel any farther than necessary to reach food and water.
3. Place baits where rats
and mice live and travel-not scattered at random or just where placement is
convenient.
4. Rats are social animals
and, within the same species, will use the same food, water source, and
runways-and might even nest close together. They range, if necessary, as
far
as 150 feet to get food and water but prefer to travel much shorter distances
if food and water are available. Therefore, you should put rat baits every 25
feet.
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